Use 120 LEDs Light Bulbs to Make a Perfect DRL

I saw a lot of friends updating their DRL. Some purchased finished product in the store but its quality was not as good as its price: either too powerful or much attenuation. I also wanted to update mine, but I preferred DIY my own LED DRL to get rid of those defects. To keep bulbs off burning out, I decided to purchase LED light bulbs and then DIY a controller based on DRL function. One hand I could guarantee its quality, on the other hand, it helped kill my time.

The function of DRL controller:

The DRL was charged with accumulator. As soon as car engine started, it started to work. When the engine stopped, it would also stop 20 seconds later, and the best thing was the postpone time was adjustable. It was synchronized with turning lights, as well as flashing lights.

In addition, my reversing lamps did not work very well. Rear camera display did not show very clear even though reversing lamps. So I would DIY new lamps together with DRL.

Those were the details I would like to share with you guys:

I bought 4 pieces of bumper stickers and they were empty in the middle. Then I could install LED in the middle of those stickers.

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My LED bulbs had a diameter of 5mm. So I only had to drill hole with diameter of 4.5mm. So the LED bulbs could get stuck with bumper.

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I got 2 kinds of LEDs from BestLightingBuy: one was for DRL with round heads, the other one was for reversing lamps with straw hat.

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Put the LEDs into bumper strip and connect them with resistance.

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4 LEDs were series connected into a group and then connect those groups in parallel (you would see the connecting sequence was shown in the picture belong). Resistance was 10 ohm each.

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Working principle:

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This was how it looked like when finished installation.

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Connect with wires.

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Glue was used for LED sealing and water proof. It was cheap and effective.

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A small test for LED strips power: 4 pieces totaled 28W.

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Those were the PCB for DRL controller.

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Weld electronic components at PCB.

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When finished, put them into box.

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Seal the cover with glue to prevent water.

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About installation, I had to drill a small hole in the bumper to lead the wires.

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And then put some glue on the bumper stickers.

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The wires of new LED reversing lamps were fixed with the old ones. It was simple, anode with red wire and cathode with white.

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DRL was fixed at accumulator also with glue. And controller power was connected with accumulator anode and cathode.

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The wires of sparkle lights which were synchronized with turning light were connected with turning lights’ anode and cathode.

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The controller wire was connected with anode of front light, so when I turned on the front light DRL would turn off automatically. And the picture below was how it worked when I started the engine.

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The Old Car has its spring

There were no top lights in my BESTURN B50 and my wife always complained that my car was like Black Hole at night, which resulted in this LED lights DIY. I always admired those skillful hands that could create something from nothing. This time, I decided to do something myself instead of being an envier. Top lights assembly, 100 pieces of 5050 white color LED lights from bestlightingbuy.com and hole plates would be enough. There was a chance for great error if just cut ceiling board. So I decided to cut hardboard as a mould. But it was not as good as I thought when I cut off ceiling board. The part which I took off happened to be where the girder was. Top light was pushed by girder, leaving 2mm gap.

Two pieces of PCB

Do some foundation works.

Then weld LED on PCB.

I planned to connect 3 resistors in parallel.

I did a test: it was 12.5V when the engine did not work; it was 124.44V when I started the engine; and it was still 14.44V even when engine rotated 5000 time per minute. So I considered taking 14.44V as the value of current-limiting resistors.

It worked. But those resistors were increasingly hot after a couple of minutes. It was 73 Ohm when 3 pieces of 220 Ohm resistors connected in parallel.

Another test with 100 Ohm resistors (0.5W) and 56 Ohm resistors (0.5W). It came out that 56 Ohm resistors did a great job in heating.

Hot melt adhesive was a very necessary part. Because coating film on reflective bowls was conductive. Make sure every part was covered.

2 pieces of 56 Ohm resistors (0.5W) connected in series.

Put LED lights into assembly.

Charge with electricity.

Let’s turn to the lights at back seats.

This was how it looked like if it was finished.

I was quite proud of myself when I saw what I did.

Do the welding.

Because of lacking of 56 Ohm resistors, I had to put 2 pieces of 220 Ohm resistors in parallel, almost equalling to 2 pieces 56 Ohm resistors in series.

Group photos

As soon as the lights done, I started with paper mould.

Draw up exactly the length and width of top lights.

Cut the part out.

Perfectly matched.

This was how it looked like at back.

Connect with wires: I planned to weld those wires with PCB. Later, I realized welding did not work for it. Electrical contacts did not hold Tin. That left me no choice but clipping wires with contacts and covering with hot melt adhesive.

Oops! The part which I chose happened to be where the girder was.

The gap made me very uncomfortable.

Actually, it wasn’t that bad.

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Generational Shift of Light System

I was always admiring those experts, who could create something barely with their hands. They were like the big guy, create something from nothing. I thought I would be one of them someday. So here I was, doing some DIY with my car. I started with width lamp, door lamp, brake lights, and trunk lights.

Width lamp: 1.5W width lamp made of ceramic. This kind of lamp is resistant to high temperatures even at 260 centigrade.
Door lamp: width lamp. 6-heads LED lights for door illuminating.
Trunk lights: LED lights with 4 smd5050 leds.
Brake lights: LED lights with 27 smd5050 leds.

It was the first step that costs troublesome. I would like to start with the easy one–door lamp. I dragged the original bulb from lampshade. Then screw shade off C.W. Do not touch with bare hands. It was burnt.

There were positive and negative electrodes in LED lamps, so if it did not work, you could try the opposite direction to screw.

Cover with shade.

It worked pretty well at night.

Trunk lights: first, pull a little from left, and then pry it out from the right side.

Before take off the bulb, unplug power supply. Be careful, it burnt. Change the new LED lamps in the right spot (marked with red circle).
Perfectly matched.

Electrify it. It worked.

How it worked at night.

Now let’s turn to brake light. Open trunk, and take off the cover.

Unscrewing those 4 bolts.

I used this for unscrew.

Screw C.W. brake light base. Then you would see the bulb.

Then screw C.W. Brake light bulb.

Replace it with LED strips and then do those 2 steps in an opposite way.

Let’s see how it works at night.

Brake light is on.

The very last one: width lamp. Open engine cover, and pull off dust cover of headlamp.

This was how it looked inside headlamp. See the bulb with one black and one blue wire, and marked with red circle? This was width lamp.

Pull it out.

Unscrew the bulb.

See the difference between the original one and the LED one?

Charge with electricity.

Put it back into the headlamp.

Wow~it looked like a pair of Evil Eyes at night!

It worked pretty well when dipped headlight was on.

Family photos of the old generation and the new family.

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Darth Maul and His Lightsabers

I was not a fan of Star Wars, but one of my friends was. And he was crazy about everything related with Star Wars. On my birthday, he sent me action figures in that movie. At first, I was not happy about his gift, but suddenly I got interested in it after reading an article about DIY. And I thought I would even do better than the writer did.

So here came my DIY. First I would like to introduce all the material I used.

Gimlet (with drill bit diameter from 0.8mm to 3.0mm), wire (you could tell which type it was from the picture below), lightsabers, button battery and LEGO Darth Maul.

As you could see, those LED strips was tiny, even compared with coins.

They were so small that I had already lost one when I unpacked them. The one I got was typed 0603 with white color. Compared with 0603, I thought maybe 0805 would be better, for the one I got was too tiny to handle. But it would not a problem for me, because I was an expert with great patience.

I would not deny that I was a perfectionist, a typical virgo. So you would see lightsaber as a perfect piece of work.

One of LEGO’s features was that wrist and deltoid was linked.

It was difficult and it needed your patience. Because the place where linked wrist and deltoid was slant, and drill bit was easily to fall apart. I suggest 0.08mm drill bit go first, when it drilled out a hole, you could use the 1.0mm one. So did the lightsaber hilt.

If you did as what I told you, there would not be any ugly hole.

In Star Wars, Darth Maul held a double-end lightsaber. A double one was much harder.

I decided put 2 LED strips in parallel. After trying a couple of times, finally there was one way could make it work: weld 2 LED with electrodes respectively, parallel connect 2 LED at the hole (in the palm), and then put those wires in the hole.

Till now the hand part was officially done, let’s come to the body part.

The length and width of 2 pieces of button batteries was perfect for the body.

Because of the length and width, I had to series connect 2 batteries meanwhile they were placed in parallel. After I decided how to handle the batteries, there was another problem: I had to drill from the place where the neck and shoulder were connected to the top of the neck in order to get all the wires inside.

And then I decided to use buttery to cement wires.

It sounded easy, but there was always a “but”, if any part did not work, it would need great effort to repair it, because those butteries and wires were all placed inside.

Where to place the switch was also a problem. I considered “neck” was the right place. But that also needed you to plug all those wires inside the neck.

After all the work I had done, I accomplished a master piece. There was nearly no external damage. It looked like an original piece.

Viewed from the front

Put the head back.

Viewed from the top, we could see the switch.

Put the cloak back on, and we could see the powerful Darth Maul with his lightsaber.

This was my favorite pose, so cool, just like the character in movie.


May the force be with you!!!

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LED Strip DIY on Motorcycle

One of my friends, Jimmy, was a big fan of motorcycle upgrading. A few days ago, we went to a garage and it was a disaster. You could never imagine how much they ask for LED strips upgrading. It was like they were about to change the whole system. I pissed off, telling Jimmy I would do as well as the professional did, just give me 2 or 3 days.

I was major in Engineering back in college, and this was what I was good at. It took almost 1/10 of the garage man offered for all the material. There were 2 circuit diagrams. And soon I would let you know which one was better and why.

Diagram 1

Diagram 2

The only difference between 2 diagrams was “fuse” which I colored with yellow in the picture above.
There were 4 LED strips.

Cut circuit board into 4 pieces: 2 long, 2short. Engineering was my specialty, not mould. Sorry for those ugly shapes.

Weld positive electrodes of all 4 LED strips at one of the circuit boards, and negative ones at another one. We had very thin iron wire to make the connection. After the board welding at positive electrode, weld one more wire with it and colored red. Same steps for negative ones, only this time with one extra black wire.

Use the rest circuit board as part of the switch. The one I chose was like the control stick of video games. Only this one cannot play games.

To prevent short circuit, it was best to wrap positive and negative electrodes respectively.

Let’s have a close-up view. See those 2 boards which were wrapped respectively?

I preferred 2 switches which was much more convenient. This time, it connected with negative electrode. If you were not OK with this step, just ignore it.

Open headlight cover, put LED strips inside. As to exact place, you were the boss. Choose wherever you liked.

As the picture showed, you would see a screw when opening black plastic cover. After loosing off the screw, there was a gasket. Connect the black wire (from negative electrode) with the gasket, and tighten it up. Recover the screw. Connect the red wire (from positive electrode) with the gasket in the red cover. Make sure those two wires never get together.

Fix LED strips with 3M sticker at back.

Fix switch at the place where near the motor head.

Fix 2 circuit boards and those wires.

If you were like me, preferring 2 switches, you could put the other one at rear part.

Put all the parts back to motorcycle. Turn on the switch and you would see how fascinating it was.
And till now, all the work had been done, if you followed diagram 1.

Let’s go to diagram 2.

Cut black wire in trunk and then connect it with fuse. Usually, one piece of fuse would be OK. But I preferred to have back up.

Testing

The reason why I preferred diagram 2 was that fuse would be the first to break if LED strips went short circuit. It also wouldn’t be a problem if you still chose diagram 1, because storage battery itself had fuse inside.

Those LED strips worked for about a couple of days and they still performed well. My parents once told me, my motorcycle turned into a dragon because of those lights. And Jimmy made a appointment as soon as he saw the “dragon”.

There was one more thing, copper sheet would be better for battery connecting.

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A Little Brighter, A Little Warmer

I bought all my lamps on the internet, which saved me much time and let me arrange my spare time to install them, not my precious weekends. Sleeping late, fishing a little, and having a very nice brunch were all I dreamed of. I would not let anything ruin it.

Every lamp in my house was handled by my husband and me. And the one in the living room was special. Our son helped us a lot with this one. He liked the lamp very much. He said it was like Aladdin’s carpet. Compared with the flying carpet, ours shaped like sky. Not bad. What made it so special was about all family members worked together, and my son was very helping. When we stood on the ladders, he passed us tools like he was a pro.

I liked the design very much for its romantic mood not Aladdin’s carpet. And I liked it at first sight: I knew this was it. The lamp got 3 kinds of light: low energy conservation tubes at 4 sides, small quartz bulbs between “the sun” and “the moon”, and color-changing LED light bulbs on plate. You could change colors through a remote control. Totally, it had 7 types.

1. All together 3 kinds of light

2. Tubes+LED bulbs

3. Tubes+quartz bulbs

4. Quartz bulbs+LED bulbs

5. Only quartz bulbs

6. Only LED bulbs

7. Only tubes

The lamp could also be controlled by switch, but under that condition, it left you 3 types instead.
For spotlight on TV wall, I chose 2 LED with color changing function.

Spotlight above couch

This was how they looked like when lights on.

Blue-color LED strips around external part of chicken ceiling.

I liked these pending lamps in kitchen. They were cheap and nice.

3 small LED bulbs would work, making them bright enough for having dinner even playing poker.

White LED strips around internal part of chicken ceiling

Ceiling lamps at hallway.


Now you could see the whole view of my living room with all the lights on.


This one was in my bedroom. It looked perfect but it took a whole lot of work. There were 30 pieces of crystal balls which needed to be placed to the exact spot one by one. My husband and I spent almost a whole afternoon handling it. I thought it was worthy.



It supervised me when I opened the package and sew how big it was. We could call it HUGE, considering its giant nest. A 45W tube would be enough for the whole room.



For hall light, I liked this simple and small one.


I wanted my shower room to be cozy and those small spotlights with warm color light would do. No one liked some dazzling light to kill your beautiful morning.

This lotus-pattern lamp at other two guest rooms.

Another ceiling lamp in my studying room. Those were the places where simpleness was best. Extra decoration would be lame.


Those below were two down lights between living room and bedroom.


I planned to put a ceiling lamp in deck, meanwhile, I had two extra down lights at hand. So here it was now. It was better than I thought, not wired at all.

I also put some tubes at the bottom of locker. The light would not directly go to your eyes. Because most of it was covered by the locker, and you can still see things cleverly on the table below.

And those were integrated ceiling lamps in washroom.




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Decorating My Dream House

If there was one thing survived in my boring life, it must be something about my new house. It was like a finishing touch, making my life a whole lot different from it was before.

Every house carried a dream, a dream that made you feel everything you did in the daytime was worthy, no matter how tired or frustrated you got. So decoration became a sort of enjoyment, and the enjoy grew as the project approached to the end day after day.

1. After a whole day work, my wife and I still could not help going to our new house to see what it looked like now. On seeing the light in the stairway, I felt something very good would happen. All my lamps were OK now. The one in the stairway was a nice try, metallic and modern.

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2. Those LED lamps in my cloakroom were cheap and nice.

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3. I preferred crystal chandelier in bedroom instead of in cloakroom. It looked like the blooming violet, shining at night.

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4. This was not just a lamp. This was art. With several pieces of glass and a dozen of LED bulbs, as you could see now, this one was like a blooming lotus, holy and pure, without noise and dust.

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5. I had one special lamp shaped ad bird’s nest. It reminded me of Easter and those good old days back when I was a kid. I hoped my kid would enjoy his childhood just like me, playing football, enjoying our tradition, even sneaking around with his little buddy, instead of sticking in front of video games.

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6. Ceiling lamp at deck. Sometimes it would confuse me with the moon. Like SALE in supermarket, “buy one, get one free”, I had two moons from my house view.

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Ceiling lamp at living room.

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7. This was the place connecting living room and hallway.

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This was the wall where I put my TV. White wall as simple as it was. Several LED bulbs would be enough. Sometimes, the simpler, the better.

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8. It was not wall paper. It was shadow of my LED light, the light going through frosted glass and then I got those patterns on the wall.

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9. I almost fell in love with it at first sight. I knew it deep in my heart that this was my dream house. My wife and I would live happily ever after here.

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10. Mr. Yan was responsible for all lamps in the house. He was very professional. I was glad to have his back. Thanks to Mr. Yan, everything was perfect.

Decorating My Dream House-15

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DIY LED Frog Lights

DIY always triggered me with its fascinating fulfillment and energy saving. If I could, I would do everything for a better world, and that led me here.

With 35W as its consumption, I could hardly notice even any frog light there. You knew how the original light worked. Why not do something with it and make it better?

This time, the task was harder than ever before. We came to the components first.
1. The manufactory said its LED light consumption could reach 3W, but I didn’t buy it. 1.5W toped. In order to get a more stable consumption, I had it at 1.5W, and would keep an eye on cooling system at back.

2. This was a single LED light and every frog light had 3 of them.

3. The LED light perfectly fitted with the original mold.

4. This was how it looked when finished.

5. Don’t worship me when you sew how perfectly they got.

6. The cooling system played an important role in lighting stability. With the help of constant-current control and fuse wire, lights could be more stabilized.

7. Those steps before were not as important as this one: taking pictures with fixed shutter and aperture.

Say goodbye to your bro.

Only ambient light.

Go for it, man.
It gave out the light like a torch did. I would be picked ass, if I used this one in front of my car.

Anyway, I would always figure it out.

8. Test driving for LED lights. Here we go!

With fixed shutter and aperture, I took pictures in 3 situations:

Ambient light

LED frog lights on.

Head lights

LED frog lights on plus head lights.

Those 2 lights looked like a pair of monster eyes.

Most of all, they cost less power and were more friendly to the environment.

P = 13V * 0.34A =4.42
The consumption of one single LED bulb was 4.5W meanwhile that of the original light was 35W. So I did it.
Those could be used as DRL in daytime.

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Happy Nerd DIY: LED Lamp

When I walked on the street, wondering how to kill my boredom, I saw people selling LED strips and other computer accessories. Aha, that could be a chance to decorate my computer case.

However, those LED strips were too bright for the case, even brighter than lamp. It would be wired if I put those strips in.

It was a 12V dc, so just plugging it into a power socket would be OK.

Suddenly, it occurred to me I could make a lamp out of what I already had: LED strips and fans. This could be a wonderful idea.

Switch wouldn’t be tricky. Make the green and black wire (of 24-pin power supply) into short circuit by connecting both with that gray one in the picture. Turn on the switch, and now you could see the power consumption was 5.5W which probably was the consumption capacitor and transformer cost inside power supply.

It showed 14.68W after connecting LED strips. The strips cost barely 9W, and it was much brighter than lamp.

My 12V power supply would be OK with any kind of LED strips.

Given the long history of my old lamp, its consumption was a sort of reasonable.

After connecting with fan, we could see the total consumption was 9.34W. With 5.5W as the battery consumption itself, the actual consumption of the fan and LED strips was 3.84W. I was quite satisfied with that.

Though the original fan worked pretty well, almost in mute, it would not do a good job in this task.

LED strips were connected with fan.

Comparing with my lamp, LED strip trumped! As you could see, those strips were much brighter than the lamp, but only cost 2W more than the former one. This would be a legend for the night owls who lived a life with computers.

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DIY My Own LED Lights

DAY 1
If you wanted to know how bored one man could be, ask any college guy in their summer vacation. As I told you, I was bored, so I decided to do something less boring than staying at home–DIY my own LED lights on my car.
Here were the LED strips, 5 meters long.

See that line across those 4 welding spots? Cut it along the line to get the size you wanted.

My welding was like a piece of crap. That’s why some professionals could make a living by their hands.

As positive and negative electrodes were close to each other, in order to keep them from short circuit, insulate them with hot glue gun.

For further insulation, wrap them with black tape.

Two long LED strips as well as two short.

Nice job, wasn’t it?

The headlight turned into one big magic eye with the help of LED. And I left the rest to tomorrow.

DAY 2
After a quick breakfast, let’s continue.
Wiring was easy. Just put them with the original light wires.

This was the lamp hole in front door.

You could never cut both wires at same time. If so, it would go short circuit directly through your scissors.

Connect wire lug.

This was what it looked when finishing connecting wires.

Stuff it into the hold and then put cover back. It looked not as bright as it should in daytime. So tonight let’s check it out.

It was charged by the same power supply as room light was. If you did not know how to handle those wires, ask the professionals or it was very likely to have shirt circuit.

The original tape was not good enough, probably easy to fall apart.

So I chose a more expensive kind, but more firm. You would never save a cent for a dollar.

Use alcohol to clean the place where LED strips was to glue.

One by one. Press them tight.

This was what it looked when finishing.

Close bonnet, and open room light. Pretty good, was’nt it? It would even better at night.

We could see LED light with the help of head lights. No nice camera. Don’t complain, just do with it.

Finally, the night!

The original head lamps gave some kind of white light.

DAY 3
Remove room light, take the yellow bulb out which could govern its luminance. Then put an aluminum strips across the groove.

The original switch was adjustable one which was not suitable for LED strips. So I changed it for a normal switch.

Glue LED with aluminum strips and connect them with wires and switch.

Close the cover.

It looked awesome, right?

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